Full Nickolaou family group photo in Nara Park with a deer photobombing

Nara: Deer, Bows, and the Biggest Buddha

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Full Nickolaou family group photo in Nara Park with a deer photobombing
The whole family in Nara Park, plus one very opinionated photobomber.

Japan on spring break gave us a lot of days I will never forget. But the day in Nara might be the one the kids talk about the longest.

Nara is an easy train ride from Kyoto or Osaka, and it is home to two things that do not sound real until you are standing in front of them: a park full of wild deer that bow to you, and one of the largest bronze Buddha statues on the planet.

The deer of Nara Park

There are over a thousand deer roaming free through Nara Park. They are considered messengers of the gods, which is a polite way of saying they run the place. You buy a stack of shika senbei, the special crackers sold by the vendors, and the deer come to you. And then they bow. An actual bow, head down, asking for a cracker.

A Nara deer looking directly at the camera in Nara Park
A messenger of the gods, up close.

Sawyer was seven and completely fearless about it. The olders went from cool teenager mode to full delight in about thirty seconds. There is something about a wild animal choosing to walk up to you and ask nicely that melts every bit of pretense.

Sawyer in a pink hoodie flashing a peace sign next to a deer
Sawyer, completely fearless.
Kennedy standing and smiling next to a deer in Nara Park
Kennedy went from cool teenager mode to full delight in about thirty seconds.
Kennedy crouching between two resting deer in Nara Park
Sandwiched by resting deer.
Devon taking a selfie next to a resting deer in Nara Park
Devon made a new friend.
Extreme close-up of a deer nudging the camera in Nara Park
This one wanted the camera, not the cracker.

Fair warning from experience: buy the crackers, hold your bag closed, and do not turn your back on a deer that has decided you are interesting. They nibble. Maps, sleeves, whatever is handy. The kids thought this was the funniest thing in Japan.

Devon holding a shika senbei cracker, mouth open in surprise, four deer crowding her in Nara Park
Devon discovered the bowing is real. So is the crowding.
Devon holding crackers up while Sawyer hands one to waiting deer in Nara Park
Devon and Sawyer handing out shika senbei.
Close-up of Devon bent over feeding a cracker to a deer
Up close and personal.
Devon feeding a cracker to a deer in Nara Park
The negotiation continues.
Devon pointing at a Beware of the male deer warning sign in Nara Park
Fair warning: read the signs. Beware of the male deer.

The Great Buddha at Todai-ji

Then you walk to Todai-ji temple, and the day shifts. The Great Buddha Hall is one of the largest wooden buildings in the world, and it has to be, because inside sits the Daibutsu: a bronze Buddha nearly fifty feet tall, cast more than a thousand years ago.

Side view of the Great Buddha inside Todai-ji temple in Nara
The Daibutsu: nearly fifty feet of bronze, cast more than a thousand years ago.
Front view of the Great Buddha in the Daibutsuden hall at Todai-ji
Inside the Great Buddha Hall, one of the largest wooden buildings in the world.

You walk in and the noise of the park just falls away. The kids went quiet without anyone telling them to. That never happens. Standing under something that massive and that old, you feel small in the best possible way. Maddox, who had been engaged by the whole Japan trip from day one, just stood there taking it in. These are the moments you travel for. Not the photos, though we took plenty. The feeling.

Full Nickolaou family selfie in front of the massive Todai-ji hall
In front of Todai-ji. The kids went quiet without anyone telling them to.
Niko selfie with Maddox carrying Sawyer on his shoulders in front of the Todai-ji hall
Maddox, on Sawyer-shoulder duty, in front of the hall.

The temple dates back to the 700s. Let that land for a second. People have been walking through that doorway, feeling exactly what we felt, for over twelve centuries.

Why this day was epic

Nara works because it gives every age something. Sawyer got the deer. The olders got the history and the scale. Devon and I got to watch all three of them experience something none of us will ever see at home.

If Japan is on your list, do not skip Nara. It is a single day, an easy train ride, and it might end up being the day your kids remember most.

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